Last reviewed: 2026-07-09 --- > Quick answer: Tiller is right for small boats under 16 ft, kicker motors, and solo fishing where you sit at the back. Remote control is right for console boats, family use, and anything where the operator is at the helm, not the transom. The...
Last reviewed: 2026-07-09
Quick answer: Tiller is right for small boats under 16 ft, kicker motors, and solo fishing where you sit at the back. Remote control is right for console boats, family use, and anything where the operator is at the helm, not the transom. The line is usually around 15–20 HP and 14–16 ft hull length. Configure either at mercuryrepower.ca.
Mercury control type decision
Tiller-steer or remote-helm Mercury?
More than just where the stick goes. The tiller-vs-remote decision changes how you fish, how you drive, and how you trailer. Here's how to pick.
Tiller-steer
- ✓You fish solo or 1-2 people and want to spot-cast from the back of the boat
- ✓You run a 14-18 ft aluminum tin boat (Lund WC, Princecraft Holiday, Legend Tin)
- ✓You like having open deck space in the front of the boat
- ✓You don't need bilge gauges, fancy electronics, or a wheel
- ✓20 to 60 HP sweet spot; Advanced Tiller available up to 115 HP
Cheapest, lightest, fewer parts to break. Perfect for back-trolling and casting. Mercury 20-60 HP tiller, $4,500-$9,500 installed.
Remote helm
- ✓You run with passengers, family, or kids who need a windshield to hide behind
- ✓You're 16-22+ ft and want gauges, electronics, livewell controls at your fingertips
- ✓You go further from the launch and value sitting forward at speed
- ✓You want power steering, hydraulic trim, SmartCraft displays
- ✓60 HP and up, especially 90 HP+
More comfortable, more capable, more expensive. Mercury 90 HP remote with mechanical controls, $14K-$17K installed. Add $2-4K for full SmartCraft / hydraulic upgrade.
When in doubt:If your boat has a built-in console with windshield, you want remote. If your boat is a tin with bench seats and no console, you want tiller. The middle case (14-16 ft with console) goes either way; we usually push remote on those, because it ages better as kids and gear pile in.
Tiller vs remote steering at a glance
| Factor |
Tiller |
Remote (helm) |
| Best hull length |
14-18 ft aluminum |
16-22 ft+ |
| HP range |
20-60 HP sweet spot; Advanced Tiller available up to 115 HP |
60 HP+, especially 90 HP+ |
| Installed price (Mercury) |
$4,500-$9,500 (20-60 HP) |
$14K-$17K (90 HP mechanical); +$2-4K SmartCraft/hydraulic |
| Steering |
Direct, reverse-intuitive |
Cable under 90 HP; hydraulic 90 HP+ (+$800-$1,500) |
| Best for |
Solo / back-of-boat fishing, trolling |
Family, passengers, bigger water |
| Rice Lake pick |
60 HP EFI tiller (standard gearcase); ProKicker 9.9 |
90-115 HP remote |
| Tiller-to-remote conversion |
$500-$1,500+ parts + labour |
- |
Prices here are planning figures as of July 2026. For live Mercury motor pricing, see the Mercury pricing reference.
The simple version
Most small boats want tiller. Most bigger boats want remote control. The question isn't complicated unless you're in the crossover zone, which is 14 to 16-foot hulls in the 25 to 40 HP range.
We sell both configurations at HBW. The decision comes down to honest analysis of how you use the boat. Solo fishing where you sit in the back wants tiller. Family fishing where the operator is at the helm wants remote. Crossover cases are where it gets harder.
What changes the answer
Hull length. Under 14 ft: tiller almost always. 14–16 ft: depends. 16 ft and up: remote almost always.
HP class. 2.5–20 HP: tiller almost always. 25–40 HP: either. 50+ HP: remote almost always (some 60 HP tiller configurations exist for specific applications).
Console or no console. Console boats almost always want remote, the console exists for the helm position.
Use case. Solo fishing favors tiller; family use and passenger interaction favors remote.
Personal preference. Some experienced solo anglers prefer the direct feel of tiller even on bigger boats. It's a legitimate call.
When tiller is clearly right
- Small tin boats (10–14 ft) without a console
- Solo fishing where the operator sits at the back
- Kicker motors on bigger boats, the 9.9 ProKicker tiller is the classic Rice Lake walleye setup
- Sailboat auxiliaries
- Dinghies and yacht tenders
The clear no for tiller:
- Console boats over 16 ft, the helm exists; tiller is awkward from it
- Family boats where the captain needs to talk to people up front
- Higher HP motors (50+ HP) where the tiller becomes physically demanding
When remote control is clearly right
- Console boats over 16 ft, standard configuration
- Family fishing and recreation
- Bigger HP main motors (90+ HP)
- Pontoons, the helm seat and remote control is the standard pontoon configuration
- Any boat with a hardtop or T-top where the helm is away from the transom
The clear no for remote:
- Very small boats (10–14 ft) without a console, adds cost and complexity for no functional gain
- Kicker applications where direct tiller control is preferred
- Sailboat auxiliaries where remote rigging is unnecessarily complex
The crossover zone: 14–16 ft hulls, 25–40 HP
This is where it gets honest:
Tiller advantages in this size class:
- Lower total cost, no rigging cables, no helm controls
- Simpler installation, drop-in vs. full rigging
- Direct fishing control for solo or two-person use
- Lighter overall weight
Remote advantages in this size class:
- Better passenger interaction, captain can talk to people up front
- More comfortable for long runs, sit at the helm vs. crouch at the transom
- Better visibility from the helm position
- Standard expectation for family-oriented boats in this size
We see customers go either way on this size class. The deciding factor is almost always use case, solo fishing often stays tiller; family use usually goes remote.
Tiller variants
Standard tiller: Manual or electric start. Throttle and shift integrated into the tiller arm. Standard on portable Mercury motors.
Power tiller: Power tilt/trim assist via a switch on the tiller handle. Common on bigger tiller motors (40+ HP). Adds cost but reduces operator effort, worth it on motors you're running for long periods.
High-thrust tiller (ProKicker variants): Built specifically for fishing kicker applications. High-thrust gearcase, larger prop, longer shaft for big-boat transoms. See the ProKicker guide for details.
Remote control variants
Mechanical remote control: Cable-driven throttle, shift, and steering. Standard on most non-DTS Mercury setups. Reliable, serviceable, lower cost.
Digital Throttle and Shift (DTS): Electronic throttle and shift, no cable wear, smoother operation. Available on higher-HP Mercury motors (generally 150 HP and up). More refined feel.
Cable vs hydraulic steering:
- Cable: Standard on smaller motors (under 90 HP). Direct, simple, lower cost.
- Hydraulic: Standard on bigger motors (90 HP and up). Easier feel at speed, more comfortable for long runs.
- Power-assist: Available on some high-HP applications. Easiest feel, most refined.
We rig both at HBW. Specific recommendations depend on motor HP and how you use the boat.
Common mistakes
Buying tiller for a console boat. The console exists for the helm. Driving a console boat from the transom is awkward every single trip.
Planning to "convert later." The conversion runs $500-$1,500+ in parts and labour. Speccing remote at repower time is always cheaper.
Going tiller on more horsepower than your arm wants. Above 60 HP, a full day on the handle is work. That's remote territory for most people.
Related posts
Ready to choose?
Build a quote at mercuryrepower.ca, live pricing in CAD with full configuration options for both tiller and remote. Or call 905-342-2153 and we'll walk through what's right for your boat.
FAQ
Should I get a tiller or remote-control Mercury?
If the boat has a console and a windshield, go remote. If it's a bench-seat tin, go tiller. In the 14-16 ft middle ground, think about who's usually aboard: a solo angler working from the transom is a tiller case, a boat that regularly carries the family is a remote case.
Is tiller cheaper than remote control?
Yes, typically by the cost of rigging cables, helm controls, and console hardware. The savings are meaningful on small to mid-HP motors.
Can I troll with a tiller motor?
Yes, easily. Tiller is actually preferred for trolling because direct speed and direction control is highly responsive. The 9.9 ProKicker tiller is the classic Ontario walleye fishing setup.
Does a tiller motor have throttle and shift integrated?
Yes. The tiller arm includes throttle (rotating handle) and shift (forward, neutral, reverse selector), integrated into the arm.
Can I add a tiller kicker to a remote-control main motor boat?
Common configuration. The main motor uses remote control from the helm; the kicker is a separate tiller motor for trolling speed control. Works well for fishing boats.
